2016年4月3日 星期日

Flash - 30 Mar 2016



-  Press the flash button, simultaneously turn the front wheel, it goes from "rear" to "red-eyed"
-  Next to it is TTL - through the len.  TTL is active when camera mode is set to "P" or "auto".

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-  Go to Menu, "Pen", go to "Blacketing Flash .."
-  Adjust power of "flash" - 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/64 etc

-  If environment INDOOR too bright or too dark ---> adjust ISO, aperture, power of flash, but NOT shutter speed

-  Shutter speed does NOT help much in changing 光或暗.  If adjust shutter speed, the different is small.  If adjust aperture, the differene is obvious

-  When the only light source is from the flash, the effect in the change of shutter speed is NOT obvious

-  If there is constant source of light on the subject, shutter speed makes a difference

-  If all light off, use 1-sec shutter speed, object is freezed because source of light is flash.  Flash is 幾千份之一秒.  Hence, action is freezed

-  If light on, still use 1-sec shutter, object is moving.  Movement of object is captured and shadows show

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Issues on colour - if too yellowdish -----> on the contrary, shutterspeed makes a difference here.

-  If environment has many sources of light (different degree of 色溫), by increasing shutter speed will stop other light sources to come in, which affects the colour tone of the subject

-  Shutter speed however has a limit with built-in flash.  1/200 or highest 1/250

-  A drawback with the design of 單鏡.  When shutter speed is higher than 1/200, different mechanism of shutter opening applies.  Opening of shutter is scanning from top down.  Hence, only part of the subject receives light, rest is in dark

-  Set 'FP' mode, higher shutter speed is allowed because the flash continuously emits light.  Hence when shutter is open, there is continuous supply of light

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Focal plane

-  FP --> means the focus is located at the shutter placed just in front of the sensor

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White balance setting

-  In an environment with mixed cool & warm lighting, take a middle setting between cool and warm
-  Fluoscent has 7 settings !!
-  Flash (6000k); Bulbs (5000k)  --->  one way to tackle is to wrap the flash with yellowdish / orange paper, set WB to "bulb"; hence, creating an environment of same color tone

---->  or set to monotone B/W, light in the environment will not affect the output then

----->  or LED light (new stuff) colour temperature can be adjusted to the way you want

How to shoot white flowers whiter under sunlight
-  direct sunlight is 5200k
-  if just temperature down 1000k, white flowers will become whiter

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"Bulb" mode comes from the flash bulb in the old times.

"time lapse" setting allowed to take certain # of pic in a designated time (star trek)

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壓光 ---->  when outdoor use flash, increase shutter speed (1/200) background (the sky) be darker.  Light on the subject is just right but background is under beause only light from flash will get on sensor.

------->  increase shutter speed; use powerful flash; small aperture (1/250, f11 + flash)


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Red-eye turned on to avoid red-eye ----> repeated short flash in the beginning, so the subject will get used to it, and avoid red-eye, when shooting

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 增光 -------> lower the shutter to absorb different colours at the background.  Shutter:  1/30 sec

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飛燈 ---------> remote flash, say, @ 45 deg onto the subject

longshutter time with flash - e.g. 追龍.  "IS"  Flash on.  If no, too yellowdish on the head of dragon

Multi-exposure - "repeating mode" - set, say, flash 6 times in 1 sec.  Each flash is an image exposed.  Light painting

-  "b" mode
-  all black background
-  flash 3 times in, say, 6 sec --> one flash, one image

Colour gels ---> placed in front of the flash change colour of the subject

Rear curtain (2nd curtain) ----> shooting at moving objects at night.





Lens - 16 Mar 2016


DX - non full-frame
N - nano coated
FX - full-frame
AF-S - auto focus with silence wave motor
G - aperture adjusting on the body itself
ED - 超低色散
II - 2nd generation

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135 full-frame = 24mm x 36mm
diagonal from A to B = AB = 24(2) + 36(2) = ~ 50mm

non full-frame = 25mm x 18mm
diagonal from K to H = HK = 18(2) x 25(2) = ~35mm

factor:  50mm/35mm = 1.5

hence, 50mm used on FF, when switch to non-FF = 50mm x 1.5 = 75mm

meaning when used on a non-ff, a 50mm len has a much longer focal length of 75mm

when use a DX len on a ff body, a 135 film cannot be used fully then.

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FF ----->  < 35mm is wide angle lens
                 50mm i.e. the diagonal of the sensor itself is standard lens
                 > 80mm is tele-photo len

Non FF --------> 35mm - diagonal of the sensor itself


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Feature of wide angle
-  the centre of the object be exegerated; the two sides of the object dragged backward;
-  object at the back of frame look smaller.

Depth of field:
- range of sharpness

Wide angle feature:
-  the closer the object, the bigger the image

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When shooting semi-oblique object, must face the light

Shadow and light

Fish eye len - shoot closer - exeggerate the closest object

Black background ---> smaller f/x, the darker the background

Reflection ----> squad down to shoot

Mirror len (ball ball len) -----> out-of-focus object becomes "ball ball" or donnuts